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How to remove Stains in Leather Seats

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You left the car window down or the sunroof open and there's a water stain in your car's leather seat....or your girlfriend spilled here red wine in your leather car seat on a night out on the town....or your kids decided they were a soon to be artist and tried their techniques out on your leather car seat with a pen, arrggg. Got kids myself, so feel your pain. Stain removal in leather seats can be tough, here's a few tricks to help get you going.

As a pro leather heal devotee I'm here to tell you that there are not to many products that can be used on a leather car seat that won't remove the end before removing the stain. Most leather in today's cars is a complete leather with a water borne urethane leather dye applied to it and is pretty susceptible to chemicals and can be removed pretty in effect with a solvent cleaner. So when in doubt call a professional.

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Water stains in Leather Seat....this is a pretty hard one to get rid of. I recently had reader send me an email on how he could get the water stains out of his car after leaving his sunroof open. This part is kinda for him inspecting I think I lost his email with pictures, I did get to see them though, so not all was lost. The pictures showed a crease that ran along the middle of the leather seat where the water had puckered the leather. In this type of situation there are two things we could do, one is sand the crease out and with some fillers and dye make the seat new again, this is where a leather pro comes in to play, or transfer of the section that is creased, that's where an cushion shop comes in. In these type of situations there aren't any leather conditioners or cleaners in the world that will remove a creased or puckered leather, what happens is the actual structure of the fibers in the leather have been altered and what you see is what you have.

If the water hasn't puckered the leather and has just left a stain, a little trick I learned from my good friend Dwain Berlin with Leather Craft Secrets, and you go to your bread box in the kitchen for this one. Take a piece of bread and roll it up into a ball and rub and blot the area with the bread ball, works pretty good. Dwain has a lot of great guidance for leather care, and if your interested in some great fun with leather go check out his book, it's quite impressive and I myself learned a few things.

Most of the time water will just evaporate and with no problems and the stains will disappear. If your car leather gets wet dry it as best you can with a towel and then condition it with your Lexol Conditioner. One way to dry the cars leather is by leaving the windows down and setting it in the sun to dry, or crack the windows and turn your car on with the heat on full blast and let it run for about 30 minutes. I'm not real hip on that one cause it's a waste of gas but it does work to dry things out better. But always condition, some rain waters are pretty dirty and harsh and the leather needs those extra nutrients to keep it soft.

If the stains are just too bad then new leather dye is the only way to bring it back then call your local leather pro like me to come and make it new again.
Mold Stains in Leather Seat....Or mildew which ever. This one kinda goes along with the water stains. Take and mix a cup of water and a cup of rubbing alcohol and mix them together, take a towel and rub a small amount of the explication onto the stained areas, until the spot is gone, again watch for dye lift, this trick works pretty well and ordinarily removes the mildew pretty quick without dye removal.

Food Stains in Leather Seat....This one can be an easy one if you just don't eat in your car, but I'm just as guilty as most and eat on the run. A mild dish soap and warm water with a rag or scotch brite pad will do the trick in most cases. Most automotive leather is complete and food stuffs ordinarily will wipe right off. If you run into a stubborn one though try a little all-purpose degreaser on a rag, don't rub too much or dye may lift. If the stain on your leather car seat from food doesn't come up with this then the dye from the food has penetrated the fibers of the leather and has dyed it, so it's time for a pro leather dye job.

Aniline leather or NuBuck leather is a separate story though, thats the soft stuff you see as an inserted piece ordinarily in the middle of the seats. You can use the soapy explication but water spots sometimes show up, so a extra cleaner works best for this kind of leather. One I propose is from the guys over at Leather Magic, they have a NuBuck Leather Care Kit that is the respond to all your NuBack needs. This kit includes cleaners and conditioners for the soft stuff, this type of leather is delicate and should be treated as such. Don't use your usual leather cleaners and conditioners on this type of leather due to fact of the oils in them will damage the look of the leather, then no more soft feeling NuBuck, so by all means; of course check out Leather Magics NuBuck Kit.

Ink, Marker, and Crayon on Leather Seat....Urgent!!! Get to it as soon as you can! If the ink is fresh you have a best opportunity of removing it from the leather then not. Rubbing alcohol, with a little bit of acetone added will sometimes get it. I've heard of hairspray, tried it with not much luck. ordinarily when an ink pen and leather come together they marry and don't split to easily. Ink is a dye and is made to lanch whatever it comes into contact with. Most ink spots I've ran into I've ordinarily had to dye the leather to cover the spot.

Crayon on a leather seat can be a booger if it's melted in the seat, you can try this but be right not to burn or pucker your leather. Take an iron and a paper towel and lay the paper towel over the crayon and with a low heat rub the iron over the paper towel over the crayon. The crayon will melt into the paper towel, move the towel around to clean spots until the crayon is gone, a little of rubbing alcohol should remove the remaining. This trick works on floor covering and cloth too. If they're just marks on the leather seat a little soap and water should do the trick or even a little rubbing alcohol on a towel works good to. If all fails there is a product from Protective Products Corp. That is all natural with no solvents that will remove crayon and lipstick it's called Solv-It, but just like whatever try a spot in an unsuspecting spot to see if it removes dye.

One last trick that I've read about around the net and am in the process of testing it, but it the Mr. Clean Magic Eraser, they do work around the house, so why not the car too. I've removed crayon and marks on my walls before with them, I do consideration it take a little paint with it though, but they do work. If you use one, be right and don't go ape sh$#, rub it then look, rub it then look, they will remove dye, so when using it take your time and check it as you go.

Sweat Stains in Leather Seat ....Salt stains from sweat can be pretty gross looking, but there is a little trick. Take and make a explication of 3 parts vinegar and one part water and wet a towel and rub the area clean, the vinegar breaks down the and helps to remove the stain.

Paint on Leather Seat....Paint removal on a leather car seat, well that ones a hard one. If it has dried it's probably there to stay. If it's a water color, just use soap and water to remove it. Latex house paint, you can try a little Goof Off but keep in mind this is a solvent and can damage the leather seat and remove dye. I have in the past been able to take my pocket knife and scrape it off. Wet the area first with a little water and lightly try to lift the paint off with your knife or even a razor blade, but don't cut the leather. Mostly though this in effect doesn't work without removing the dye underneath, but I have had luck sometimes. If its car paint, try a little paint reducer on a rag, but just wipe lightly and don't soak the area with the reducer. Solvents and leather seats just don't mix.

My best guidance to all when it come to stains in your leather car seats, and that is to be known of what you do, try to keep our little Picasso's pen free, keep our food out of our cars, roll the windows up and sunroofs closed, and always remember to treat the leather with your Lexol Conditioner on a regular basis, this helps to keep the leather car seats protected and soft and makes it easier to get the spills and accidents from turning into disasters.
But always remember that we leather heal professionals are here to save those leather car seats and bring them back to there primary state. If you have any questions don't hesitate to contact me for all your leather heal needs.

How to remove Stains in Leather Seats

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(949) 829-4262 - Buena Park Auto Body Shop, CA

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(949) 829-4262 - Buena Park Auto Body Shop, CA Tube. Duration : 1.95 Mins.


www.autobodyshoporange.com (949) 829-4262 - Buena Park Auto Body Shop, CA Auto Restoration and Collision Specialist in Orange County, CA Auto Body and Collision and Auto Repair and Restoration Shop Address 70 Auto Center Dr Foothill Ranch, CA 92610 Phone: (949) 454-1000 Hours: Mon-Fri: 7:00AM - 6:00PM Sat: 8:00AM - 5:00PM At Elite Automotive Services, we strive to do whatever it takes to make your Car, Light Truck, Motor home or Commercial Fleet Vehicle, maintenance and repair experience, as simple, convenient and affordable as possible. We are truly a one stop shop. With over seventy five years of combined experience, our award winning, factory trained, Master Certified Technicians will perform all manufacturers scheduled maintenance and repairs on your vehicle. We will also handle all your fleet needs as well. We understand the importance of a fleet operation and pride ourselves on meeting your unique requirements. We guarantee your vehicle will be "Fixed Right The First Time, On Time, Every Time". We offer the best parts and service warranty in the industry. Providing complete customer satisfaction is our number one goal.

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How to Do Window Tinting

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Window Tinting Bmps - Best supervision Practices and Procedures. Every auto detailer who lives in works south of the Mason Dixon line or in a large metro area has asked themselves; should I offer window tinting to my customers? Every wholesale auto detailer in such states in areas has probably been asked by their customers, namely new car dealerships and small used car dealerships, do you know anybody who does window tinting? That uncomplicated inquire spins around your mind like a opinion you can control, hey, maybe I should you window tinting, what can I charge, how do you do it? Is it difficult?

Many auto detailer's and professional car care specialists or even those that call themselves movable car washers and detailer's have considered such a tact. Some have found that they did not have permissible training, that was not as easy as it looked in that they had made a grave mistake. While others seem to have a knack for tinting windows tinting windows is as much an art as a science you have to mistake and a rigorous I and patience, just the thing for a detailer, well at least a professional one, man who is into the details. Here are some tips and ideas that may help you decide if you want to go get some professional training, and start gift such services. There are some relatively basic steps that does the profession must follow. It is not easy, but in ideas it is simple. First you must put in order the face of the window, the window must be perfectly clean with not even the finest speck of dust. It saves a lot of time if you have permissible tools for window tinting, for instance some hard-cards, a heat gun and some in razor blades.

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It is also nice to have a tiny squeegee. You'll see seasoned professionals who also carry around paper towels and dishes soap. You also need to look out for the things like automotive caulking compounds and weather stripping sticking out, these can make for it to install, any need to take care these things upfront. Also, make sure there are no cellular phone or satellite radio antenna components on the inside the window. If there are you're going to the work around us any need to put extra liquid around us area so you can move the tent around to get in the right spot before you start cutting up the shape of the razor blade.

We have often seen old antenna mounts or leftover glue on the windows that we didn't see due to the lighting or shading when we first started, and there you are with a soapy film mass with one hand it is a razor blade to scrape of the other hand, all the while knowing that you don't do all right, he could positively fold over the window tent and have to start thoroughly over any just by yourself extra material. This is why you should pay extra concentration to every square into the face of the interior of the window before attempting this procedure. Once this is completed while the window film is still dry, you need to cut the film to the basic shape of the window. The easiest way to do this is to lay on the face of the window and cut into the basic shape in a nylon paper, but leave yourself a exiguous extra room. Then take the nylon paper and slightly moisten the window to the desired whole and lay the paper against the inside of the window and then plane out the paper working from the center outward in all directions. As you get towards the edges make a few cuts along the edge. Cut the paper to the exact shape and then lay it on top of the film w/liner.

Trace around the face of the paper on top after you tape down four edges and are sure it is perfectly flat. If you have and areas where you have to go around like the mirrors you have already cut the chance in the paper and will trace that chance on to the film and peel sheet. Once you have the excellent shape you are ready to go and setup the tint. Now place this on the window in the right place after you have put some soapy water on the inside of the window, pull back the first 1/3 of the peel sheet and spray the window tint showing with adhesive window solution. It best if you never touch the window film itself during this process. Makes sure the edges are lined up on all sides. slowly peel and spray adhesive and work any air bubbles out you want to leave about one-eight inch from the top of the window and work downwards. By using the squeegee you need to slowly work downward all the to the lowest and out to the sides, it is okay to let the clarification move down with your squeegee, it is good to use a exiguous extra clarification than not enough. Once all is strict use the plastic hard tool too bring down the clarification and any soapy water and then pat and buff the moisture left.

To keep the plastic tool from ripping often it is advised to use a paper towel wrapped around it. This is what we have seen most operators do who are seasoned and experienced. One recent question we have seen in the last few years is those windows with safety glass, which have a dot pattern on the edges. This makes things a exiguous tougher.

You want to use more adhesive on the edges otherwise it will try to peel up. So use more clarification as you are working outward and try to work upward on the preliminary point of contact, some of this extra clarification will roll down, but that is okay you need a tight seam at the top. another issue is to propose your clients of the law in your state if one exists for window tinting.

Many states outlaw black out tinting commonly referred to a Limo tinting, some allow Suvs to have tint like this but not cars, some states Suvs can have it in the back, but not in the front. There are so many laws you need to know what your state says and also and if you live near a border to another state, well? Best to know those laws too. In some stats the operator is responsible, other states the vehicle owner and in some states the installer also. Great more laws, yep. Get use to it you are in an over regulated industry.

How to Do Window Tinting

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